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‘A visit to the 1953
crash site of an
American Convair B-36,
Nut Cove, NL’
I was so pleased that I
had finally made it to a
place I had been wanting
to visit for so long. It
was a magnificent
Newfoundland late August
day, the sky a brilliant
blue with fluffy clouds
caressing each other as
they moved across their
blue carpet. A slight
warm breeze was blowing,
and the smell of the
trees combined with the
view from my vantage
point at the top of the
mountain, was an
experience well worth
the long steep hike to
get to this site. The
calm seas of the bay in
the distance, the
sparkling water of Smith
Sound just below me, the
evergreen trees
spreading as far as the
eye could see, several
small ponds tickled with
waterlily pads, the
blueberry bushes, and
even the lichen on the
humongous rocks, were
all welcoming signs to
me. Yes, it was a
perfect day, with a
panorama unsurpassed in
Nut Cove, Trinity Bay,
Newfoundland.
However, the scene below
me was disturbing and
sad. The wreckage of an
American Convair B-36,
six engine military
airplane, with a span of
230 feet from one
wingtip to another, a
bomber known as ‘The
Peacemaker’ had crashed
on this mountain side in
the middle of the night
on March 18, 1953, with
the loss of all
twenty-three airmen, one
of them being Brigadier
General Richard
Ellsworth. The aircraft
had gone dreadfully off
course in bad weather,
and the results were
spread out over the
hillside below where I
was standing. The
enormity of the impact,
and the loss of lives,
seared my soul as I let
it all sink into my
heart and mind.
Accessing this crash
site requires a steep
forty minute hike to the
top of the ridge. A
sign, placed by the 515
Air Cadet Squadron,
Atlantic Region, marks
the beginning of the
trail, and tells me that
the climb up is at least
forty minutes. The trail
is rough in spots but
has several resting
benches that are well
used. I started my
climb, my camera and
essential items secured
in my backpack.
Once I start to see
pieces of metal I knew I
was about to see the
place where so many
airmen had died. The
wind whistles through
the pieces of metal, and
occasionally the sound
of a piece of metal
swinging in the breeze,
is a stark reminder of
what happened here. It
is an area that causes
me to speak in a hush
and I am in awe of the
massive engines, the
fuselage, still partly
intact, and the debris
still evident after
fifty two years.
The broad spread
wreckage and metal is in
direct contrast to the
beauty that surrounds
it. Small buttercup
flowers and blueberry
bushes are growing up
through pieces of metal
that are reflecting the
suns’ rays. It is a
heart wrenching sight
that lies before me.
This catastrophe here
started to unfold in the
Azores on the morning of
March 18th,
1953,when the large
American Convair B-36
left to fly to their
home base in South
Dakota. The flight path
would take them, on this
twenty-five-hour
journey, across the
Atlantic Ocean and over
Newfoundland. The plan
was to fly low then
increase to a higher
altitude starting twenty
miles from Newfoundland
in order to allow them
to fly over the
mountainous terrain of
the island. However, the
large flying machine
reached Newfoundland
about one and one half
hours earlier than they
expected, and had not
reached the altitude
they would need to avoid
the rocky hillsides. At
4:00 A.M. visibility was
poor as the huge plane
flew straight through
sleet, fog and freezing
drizzle, right into the
granite cliff, hitting
the 896-foot high ridge
at 800 feet, at a ground
speed of 202 knots.
Nothing could survive
the massive collision of
aircraft and a granite
wall.
Nobody knows what
transpired inside the
aircraft. There was
nobody left alive to
fill in the blanks.
There is some evidence
that the large aircraft
was trying to gain
altitude at the last
minute. However,
everything known about
the crash was
speculation as the
pieces of the plane were
examined.
The aircraft was ripped
apart, wreckage was
strewn over half a mile,
the crew died on impact,
an impact that was
followed by a huge
explosion and fireball.
The plane that was so
off course, was so
large, had such poor
radar, and that carried
men with loved ones and
families waiting for
them at home, had come
to a tragic end.
The loggers working on
the hill heard the
noise, saw the sky light
up with fire, and
quickly arranged for a
search party to hike
through the deep snow to
the scene. They found a
huge burning wrecked
plane, engulfed in
flames, and no
survivors. From then on
the frenetic activity
centered around trying
to do damage control and
recover the bodies.
It is fifty-two years
later now. Wreckage
still lies where it
landed. An aircraft
wing, the fuselage, the
engines, and debris are
everywhere. Much of the
metal has been removed
over the years, yet much
still remains. It is the
graveyard of one of the
biggest aircraft flown
at that time, an
aircraft with massive
bombing capacity, but
was known as ‘The
Peacekeeper’, never
having fired a shot in
anger. I have a
shivering feeling as I
try to absorb it all.
Then I notice what looks
like a propellor in a
block of stone about
forty feet further up on
the highest point of the
disaster area. I had to
see what it was, what it
said, and look at the
tragic site from a
higher vantage point. I
climbed up to what was
indeed a propellor,
painted black, mounted
on a stone block which
has a plaque attached to
it telling the names of
the lost crew.
From this very high
level, the view is
endless. The massive
pieces of the huge
wreck, the wings, and
other large pieces of
the ill-fated flight,
the bay in the distance
appears closer, the
trees stretch for miles,
the sky feels closer,
and little wild flowers
are growing here as
well. I have the
disquieting feeling of
having invaded a
graveyard, of feeling
the need to be as quiet
as possible. I notice
other people have
arrived and are in the
same quiet mode.
I have a distinct sense
of what a story of loss
this site tells. I read
the names on the plaque
and wonder about the
lost crew, and of their
families that had to
accept that loss and
continue on.
I take some photos, then
I sit and read each and
every name on the
Memorial. I have heard
the stories of how
difficult it was to
retrieve anything from
the crash site because
Nut Cove and Burgoynes
Cove were much more
isolated that long ago.
Boats were used to cross
over to Lower Lance Cove
with anything the
investigators retrieved
from the wreck,
including the remains of
those lost.
That night took many
more lives as well. A
Boeing SB-29
Superfortress and its’
crew from Harmon Air
force Base in
Stephenville,
Newfoundland, was lost
and never heard from
again after locating the
crash site from the air.
The plane and its’ crew
of ten were never found.
I feel a profound
sadness, a question as
to ‘Why?’ these things
happen. There are no
answers. The tiny
flowers nod in the
breeze, the blueberries
grow in the nooks and
crannies of the rugged
rocks, and life
seemingly has gone on in
this area, with help
from Mother Nature and
her drive for renewal.
I think of the families
of these lost lives, how
their grief would be so
profound, their loss so
traumatic. I can only
hope they went on to
grow and blossom as the
hardy Newfoundland wild
flowers that grace the
area where their lost
loved one touched the
earth.
I glance up again at the
Propellor Memorial, and
read the words inscribed
on it. Words that are
all we have to help us
understand, but I do not
understand it yet. I
feel just a sorrow and
awe that come from
seeing such a massive
scene of destruction.
Written on the Propellor
Memorial are the words
from Isaiah 40:31;
"They shall mount up
with wings as eagles,
they shall run and not
be weary; and they shall
walk and not faint."
May it be so for those
left behind, as I am
sure it is for those who
have left.
Bonnie Jarvis-Lowe |